Here’s a moisturizing recipe that I’ve come up with as the base for a number of salves to meet everyday needs. One can modify the moisturizing or breathability quality with a slight adjustment in the ratio of waxes. A lot of skin salves and balms use beeswax because it has a very long shelf life, antiviral and antibacterial properties; however, it also can add a stickiness to a product where it may not be desired over time, where breathability and slip are key. Having 100% plant-based products is important to me, so I’ve done a lot of formulation testing to come up a similar properties using Candelilla Wax instead of beeswax that I can use in deodorants, lip balms and massaging salves alike.
For added benefits, the solid or liquid oils can be infused with herbs, with advance preparation (2 hours to 6 weeks in advance – there’s a whole ‘nother DIY article on this topic). With coconut oil, since it is solid at room temperature, I use the heat method of infusing, bringing the coconut oil just barely to the melting point with the herbs for up to 4 hours on the lowest heat possible. If managing heat over a stove is difficult, you can melt the oil and pour over the herbs and place in a sunny warm place or hold in a 200degree over, wrapped in foil. If time permits and I’m using a liquid oil, the solar infusion is always preferred, as it produces a higher quality, more potent extract. For skin salves, I find myself drawn to calendula, jewelweed, lavender, lemon balm, st. john’s wort, arnica and sassafras. Since I have included infused oils in my soapmaking from scratch, I have noticed that combining oils in the infusing stage, produces inconsistent results – I recommend infusing oils with herbs in separate containers, and only combining your infusions after they have processed, if you must (Example: one herb per jar). If you can’t harvest and dry your own herbs, you can buy some high quality ones here.
I recommend to weigh out and start melting your candelilla wax and shea butter in a double boiler (jar or glass measuring cup in pot of water 1.5″ full), since it takes about 45 minutes for 2 oz to melt completely, and might need some stirring to finish the job. While this is happening, you can weigh out each of your remaining ingredients into separate dishes and cover your work surface with a couple of paper towels or newsprint. Place containers about an inch apart on this surface in a row or two. Unlid each one and set lids aside. Also , put a few stainless steel spoons in the freezer.
Next, you’ll add the coconut oil. I’ve found the raw stuff smells a bit nutty/fruity and varies in consistency, so I prefer the organic, refined – but don’t let my preferences stop you if you have some of the other kind on hand.
As the coconut oil finishes melting, you can remove from heat and gradually stir in your liquid wax or oil to the melted wax/butter combination. Sesame, Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba Wax, Olive Oil, are all good options with high absorption that also add slip.
I recommend tempering your base after it is completely melted, measuring 140* F for 20 minutes. You can use one of the frozen spoons to check the consistency with a quick dip-test. If you have 1 drop fall off the spoon after pulling it out before it rehardens, it may be too firm to spread over skin without a built-in applicator (like a lip balm tube) – so you’ll want to add more liquid oil. If you get more than 4 drips, it may melt in its container on a warm day – so you’ll want to add more wax or butter. These micro adjustments can make all the difference in if your product can be used on the lips or skin and how it is applied.
Once you have the consistency you like, you can stir in your essential oils, immediately pour into your containers and gently top with their lids. Allow your containers to cool completely before moving them. Label each with the ingredients and store in a cool, dark place using completely within a couple of years.
I often recommend lavender since it has so many calming and cleansing properties, but you might also use Helichrysum, Carrot Seed Oil, Roman Chamomile, Geranium and/or Clary Sage for this particular type of moisturizing and skin calming salve. Sometimes, I also save a little room for a few drops of Rosemary, for its antioxidant properties. Thoroughly review the properties and safety of any essential oil(s) you plan to use.*
- 2 oz Candelilla Wax
- 6.5 oz Shea or Mango Butter, Refined
- 2 oz Coconut Oil, Refined
- 2 oz Oil or liquid wax
- 0.1 oz Vitamin E
- Up to 100 drops of essential oils*
- 12 x 1 oz tin or glass containers
*This is the total, combined limit for a 12.6 oz batch, and there are approximately 600 drops in an ounce of liquid, so < 2% Essential Oil Safe Dilution Rate for most essential oils is about 10 drops per ounce of finished product. Research those marked as potentially phototoxic (many citrus) or sensitizing (peppermint, cassia, etc.) in which the amounts should be reduced further. Exercise caution and research each essential oil as skin contact can cause dermatitis and irritation, or respiratory problems in children and pets. To learn more about the safety of use with essential oils, check out Tisserand’s book or take a course in aromatherapy.